Experimentation 2 - Embroidery Designs.

I want some sort of image or design on my garments because it would be the only way to communicate the message about the impact of toxic dying.  However, I still want my piece to be modern, simplistic and simple. Because of these reasons, I did some research about the new upcoming trends for 2016 and discovered that embroidery on denim and on jackets was a new modern creative way of wearing jeans. It also gave the garments a 3D effect - which i thought could be a modern way of putting a photo on a garment.

I first used a photograph that i took without editing it before it was sewn on to the fabric.
The outcome was disappointing  - it wasn't clear and quite messy.

 This image shows the process of what the embroidery machine will do and what thread is needed to make the design.  I wasn't sure if the image on the computer would be exactly what it would look like on the fabric.

Looking at these photos, i think the first image looks more like water than the second image. - I think the more colour is used the more the image will get lost.

My second try with the embroidery machine was much better. Instead of using the image process on the program, I used the punch parameter.  The image is so much clearer and simple, i think it looks more like water than the first experiment - It looks more modern as well i think.

And because my theme is about water contamination by textile dyeing, I will only use white thread to make the pattern. Ive had to first really simplify the images I took before editing it on the program.

I really like only using white thread  and now i have the opportunity to naturally hand dye these patterns to share that knowledge that there are easy ways of dyeing textiles in an eco friendly way. 

Experimentation - Sublimation Printing.

I started off with sublimation printing for my experimenting. Ive combined my own images with Lu Guangs photographs of the area that has been affected by the contaminated waters. I thought visually this would give a great impact to the viewers - to give that strong message as well.

The print above was done on a scuba material, i did not edit the image before printing it and the outcome was quite purple in colour. This print is not as modern as i wanted it to be and I don't see how these realistic images would look professional on my garments. 

I decided to try the sublimation printing with just my images that i took of water. I first edited the colour by making the saturation very vibrant -- 

But the outcome wasn't what I was expecting, the colour was too vibrant and didn't give much of an impact. --

After designing this print on the illustration below I find it quite straightforward and seems as if there was not too much development in this design. 

Looking at these experiments made realise that this process does not relate to my concept or the message I am trying to convey through my garments. 

Japanese Dyeing.

I just discovered a new article on Vogue. com about a Japanese indigo dyeing technique. 

This article is very relatable to my project because its about natural Indigo dyeing and quite a traditional process in japan. And it is the only country where this natural dyeing process takes place. 

http://www.vogue.com/13428919/raw-denim-traditional-japanese-indigo-dyeing-industry-standard-jeans-how-to/

jacket and sweatshirt combined.

Studying the photographs of the villagers and workers in Xingtang, i noticed that not many wear clothing that have more than one function. I see them working in plain t-shirts and some not wearing anything, already I am planning on designing a simple sustainable t-shirt but i want to design something that can be functional- almost a two in one jacket/sweatshirt that can be worn outside as well as keeping the villagers warm.

Not only would these garments be functional but also sustainable, organic and environmentally friendly -  I would hope that being aware of this would make the workers and villagers understand that there are simpler and healthier ways of making clothes/dying clothes.

Below are inspirational and visual ideas of the jacket and sweatshirt I am going to design --

Waterles dying processes.

Natural Indigo dyeing.

I need to research more about waterless dying that can enrich my garments and encourage that message about how water does not need to be used in order to create colourful clothing.

 http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/indigo.html


Cotton is one of the world’s most popular fabrics for clothes. With indigo there is no need to mordant the fabric beforehand. Mordanting is a time-consuming process but most other natural dyes require you to mordant the cotton first. The original blue jeans were dyed with indigo.

Indigo was traditionally used to dye blue cloth in Japan. Indigo dye was long-lasting and practical, did not show the dirt and the Japanese believed that indigo dye protected the material against moths and insects.

I have noticed that even though Inidgo is a natural dying compound, you still need to use a large amount of water to create just a minor amount of fabric. -- I need to research ways of cleaning and purifying indigo-dyed water.

http://news.cornell.edu/stories/2013/09/treated-fibers-clean-dye-polluted-waters

http://www.popsci.com/blog-network/techtiles/problem-indigo


http://download.springer.com/static/pdf/178/art%253A10.1186%252Fs40691-014-0016-3.pdf?originUrl=http%3A%2F%2Flink.springer.com%2Farticle%2F10.1186%2Fs40691-014-0016-3&token2=exp=1461670082~acl=%2Fstatic%2Fpdf%2F178%2Fart%25253A10.1186%25252Fs40691-014-0016-3.pdf%3ForiginUrl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Flink.springer.com%252Farticle%252F10.1186%252Fs40691-014-0016-3*~hmac=8e93b58b050c41b235908fab7b31eabfdeaa18f51a52b457e06a75e62a5ade17



http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20389008

cationic hydrogels
sodium permanganate

Fique fibres from the fique plant purifies indigo-dyed fabric.


http://conservationmagazine.org/2013/12/fique-plant-cleans-up-dye/

http://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2013/gc/c3gc40911b#!divAbstract -- Nano-enabled fique fibres.

https://36readyblog.com/2013/01/12/water-purification-simple-and-inexpensive-methods/

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=05ORCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA102&lpg=PA102&dq=fique+fibres&source=bl&ots=LE6ncKii2b&sig=7znieV_U2I-3BGzkOLreiOWfe1I&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwia6Z2NnKzMAhVaOMAKHRtVBMIQ6AEIQjAG#v=onepage&q=fique%20fibres&f=false



After researching all these websites above, I have finally discovered a way of cleaning the water after it has been chemically contaminated with Indigo dye.
ChemistryLand. com conducted an experiement to see which resins would absorb the colour and toxins from the dyed water. Activated Charcoal was successful in filtering both the colour and toxins in the water.

http://www.chemistryland.com/CHM107Lab/Lab5/Filters/Lab5Exp2filters.html
Activated charcoal means it has been heated to increase its ability to absorb molecules. It is also used to filter and purify liquids, to absorb poisons (as in gas mask filters), and in emergency situations to neutralize swallowed poisons. 

Today I was unable to attend the photoshoot at Rush SkatePark in Stroud. Although i was prepared for the shoot I discovered some mis-calculations in my construction of the jeans and the neatness of my underwear was not the best as it could be.

I did use the over-locker machine to neaten the jeans and to get any threads cut off. Looking at my first outfit I am not satisfied with the quality and style of them. I think I needed to do more research on bras shapes and the construction of them before designing and sewing my own. I think that this could of been easier for me to get the measurements more accurate rather than estimating.

however, I think that the jeans are the best I could of done and all I need to do is sew some more hem lines to get an authentic Jeans effect and add rivets in the corners of all the pockets.

I have been updated by Elle magazine about the purpose of rivets on jeans. --

http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/news/icymi-those-little-metal-things-on-your-jeans-serve-an-important-purpose    --

I have bought two sewing patterns; one is for mens straight-cut jeans and the other is underwear for women.

What I plan to do is complete the bra first which will come from a sewing pattern and complete the underwear then I can move on to the mens outfit - which will just be the jeans and underwear.

Tomorrow I need to update my sketchbook, look at label designs for my jeans and accessories if possible.



If underwear and jeans are too risky for a fashion show I may have to consider designing sweatshirts which would be sustainable for the villagers in Xintang. - I have gathered inspiration of more modern shapes - and maybe the possibility of using the denim fabric rather than the organic jersey cotton.

Here is my Pinterest board where I source additional inspiration. --

https://uk.pinterest.com/beccymary98/photoshoot-the-tears-series/

Neil Kraft / KraftWorks.

http://www.kraftworksnyc.com/calvin-klein-2/


Neil Kraft is a creative director, his job is to get brands noticed by his co-oordinating and creative skills through photography, style and theme which works for each brand or organisation.

In the 90's, Calvin Klein was losing relevancy with consumers and needed to do something drastic to get his brand noticed. Neil was tasked with helping to reinvent the brand, which was important for changing the consumers perceptions. Neil modernised the brands logo, packaging and shopping bag, as well as helping launch and reconceive the groundbreaking CKOne and Obsession fragrances. All efforts further solidified Calvin Klein as the essential brand for young urban consumers.

Photoshoot Ready.

Tomorrow is the Photoshoot at the Rush Skatepark in Stroud. I need to be prepared for the shoot and to be on time. -  I have to get a kit together in order to create a good photoshoot to compliment the surroundings as well as my garments on the model.

i have decided to go for a natural, fresh look. For inspiration I have looked at photographs and photoshoots by tyrone Lebon and Calvin Klein.
What i love about Calvin Kleins photographs are the fresh and dewy style. I like the black and white photographs with the lighting focusing on the garments. The make-up was done wisely, focusing more on the highlighting and embracing the models features rather making it look like they were trying too hard with the make-up.

Here I have gathered inspirational make-up and photoshoot composition ideas.

I have got all make-up and other products to use on the model. I have tried to replicate the colours from these images above.  I will also need to get a zipped jacket for the model because the studio area is very cold and i need my model to be as comfortable as possible for this shoot. 

Illustrations.

Patches/Embroidery trends 2016.

Pattern Cutting.

Learning and Understanding the terminology of pattern cutting instructions is very difficult, for me. I have never followed a step by step process for making a garment and even though I knew this was going to be challenge I know it will make the quality of my garments at a higher standard. My garments and the style of them are very minimal and simplistic- this means that I need to show good sewing techniques in order to create something visually engaging.

I had asked my lecturer numerous of times to help with my pattern cutting instructions for the jeans and even had one of my peers help me. I realised that I needed to concentrate on the methods of following a pattern so that I didn't need to keep asking for help from both the lecturer and the peers.

I spent one whole day putting together my jeans and tried to document every step and tips that my lecturer gave me. After I completed them I adjusted the measurements while the model was trying them on so that they would fit in flattering and comfortable way.


I knew that my underwear wouldn't take as long as the jeans would. So once i finished the jeans, i moved onto the underwear because it is important that i get the measurements and shape as accurate as possible. The previous day I noted down the measurements of my model so that I was prepared to sew them in the right size and shape.
The picture above shows an example of what style i am going for - the "engendered" design. I used a jersey fabric for my toiling to understand the elasticity that the fabric would have once it was sewn. Because my organic cotton jersey is very delicate and soft I need to overlock all hems so that the underwear and bra does not unthread.

EMBRIODERY.

After experimenting with the sublimation print. I found that the image looked too flat and not a effective as could be. I want it to look more 3D to make the images more realistic and almost alive.

Looking at the AW/16 fashion runways, I found a very strong trend of embroidery in both the ready-to-wear fashion and haute couture.
Looking at all of the creative and artistic embroidery on the runway made each garment come to life - they had their own personality and their story.

After seeing what embroidery can achieve i think using this technique on top of the sublimation print could really bring out my strong concept and i think visually it will look energetic on the runway.

GUCCI 2016

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 2016

Gucci and Alexander Mcqueens 2016 collections were full of enchanting embroidery. They were fresh and even though these completely different designers used the same embroidery, they each told different stories and had unique styles. 

Guccis jeans looked striking with the floral embroidery,  it gives the garment a new depth and composition against the strong denim. 

Alexander Mcqueens embriodery is more embellished giving a mystical sense, each garment is filled with colour by only the embroidery with a blank canvas underneath. 

I think the embellishing makes the garments tell a story, expressing what the designer was trying communicate and this is what I am hoping to achieve for my final garments as my project is based on communicating a devastation and raising awareness. 

ungendered.

Ungendered styled garments

Ive realised after designing and sketching my illustrations I found that having "un-gendered" styled garments would related to my research and consideration of the workers who are both women and men.
Both the men and women as well as children have important roles for creating the bras and jeans that we wear. I think having a style that associates with this will give my garments a strong visual understanding of what they do and how important they are.

Ungendered/Unisex trends 2016

Lu Guang.

Lu Guang

Photographer

Lu Guang has been a freelance photographer since 1993. He has been documenting major issues around his home town and all over China, focusing on some of the most significant social, health, and environmental issues facing his country today. 

One of the environmental subjects he has worked on is the polluted waters and health issues caused by textile manufacturers in Xingtang. I find him important and relative for my project because he has communicated these awful environmental issues visually and has physically seen the damage that has been done by these textile factories. 

Not only that but his photographs have made many news reporters and environmental practices aware of this devastating situation. 

Each photograph is raw, it is almost a crime scene. The villagers faces reveal everything, his compositions, lighting and angles of his photographs communicate a strong understanding of the pollution and the effects it is having on the villagers. 

I really like how he captures images of the industrial sites but focusing the environmental issues from within. He is showing where the pollution starts and what the exhausting and dangerous work the villagers do to create clothes for us. 

Lu Guang is the only photographer that has taken photos of the water pollution and the health issues in the province that I am basing my project on. I have decided to use these photographs in my garments, in some way, I want to use them because they communicate the issues visually.

I want to ask Lu Guang if i can use his photos and put them into my garments but I want to ask him how he would like them to look like, how he think would be effective to communicate to the viewers how devastating the situation is and how the water pollution is effecting the environment. 

Emailing Lu Guang

I finally found photographer, Lu Guangs email address after asking for his contacts through photography websites and companies. I thought this would be great way to get his voice out to help explain what he saw and to get a personal opinion on his photographs that he took of the water pollution in Xintang. 

Even though he is on the there side of the world, I do hope he would take the time to answer these questions but if not I will have to narrow down the questions and add some Chinese translations to hopefully make him more engaged in the email.